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THE
RETURN TO LOCH SHIEL
by Richard Tearle
Summer
1966
After
a week camping in the shadow of Ben Nevis, the three London boys decided to
move on and take the train from Fort William to the end of the line at Mallaig
in the Western Highlands of Scotland.
The
train moved unhurriedly along the line, lurching around some of the tighter
curves. Whether by luck or due to the Scottish sense of hospitality they would
never know, but they found themselves in prime seats: the last carriage had
once been used on a crack express train service between London and Edinburgh.
The rear of the coach sloped outwards and sported two large windows. The three
friends had been allocated three of the four seats that faced outwards thus,
combined with the normal windows either side, gave a panoramic view of the
countryside.
They
had watched Ben Nevis disappear into the distance. Ray Turner, sixteen years old, was
enthralled. Never had he seen such a beautiful land.
He
felt a tap on is shoulder. He turned and was confronted by a smiling woman. 'If
ye look to your right, ye'll see Loch Shiel and the Monument.'
Ray
shifted his position. The train was crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct, though he did not know the name of it then. From a high vantage point, he looked down.
The loch, clear and blue, sparkling in the sunshine, reflecting the few clouds
in the sky stretched out in the distance, tapering into a 'V' shape, hills on each shore like protecting soldiers.
It was magnificent and took his breath away.
'See
the Monument?' the woman asked, pointing to a spot on the near shore.
He
saw a round tower, crenelated, with what looked like a small figure standing
inside them.
'It's
where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard,' the woman explained with more
than a touch of pride in her voice. '1745. The Jacobite rebellion. Och, here's
ma stop. Nice to have met you, young man. Enjoy your stay in our wonderful
country.' And she was gone.
Ray
turned back to the view. The train was slowing but even so the sight was gone
all too quickly. The Guard called out 'Glenfinnan! Glenfinnan Station!'
One
day I will return, Ray
vowed.
FIFTY
YEARS LATER
'You
ready, Dad?' Denise called from downstairs.
'Just
coming' Ray shouted back. For the third time – at least – he checked his
rucksack. All was there as it should be. The camera had not sneaked out of the
bag!
Outside,
Denise's partner, Andy, was already waiting in the car, engine running, picnic
bag nestling on the back seat. Ray opened the back door.
'In
the front, Ray,' Andy called over his shoulder. Despite a half-hearted protest,
Ray climbed in.
'How
long will it take?' he asked as he buckled his seat belt.
'From
Lennoxtown to Glenfinnan? Two, maybe three hours. We'll go to the bottom of Loch Lomond, follow the western
shore and then on into the Highlands. You'll love this!'
He would. Spending time with his daughter and Andy had proved the best holiday of
his life so far. They had taken him to Stirling Castle, The Wallace Monument
and the Kelpies so far. The camera had been busy and Ray had ensure that he had
charged it fully the night before.
'Look,'
said Ray, 'I really appreciate this. It's a long way and …'
'Away
with you,' Andy laughed. 'It's my pleasure to show off my homeland to you. Tell you what, we'll stop off at Glenfinnan
station first: maybe there'll be a train coming. It's a steam line now,
y'know.'
Ray
did. One of the most picturesque heritage lines in the world. Ray settled back
in his seat.
They
made a couple of stops on the way; at Tarbet towards the north of Loch Lomond
where pipers were on hand to play tourists onto the loch's cruise ship and then
at Fort William for petrol and a comfort break. Ray was amazed at the knowledge
Andy displayed about his country. Ray could sense the delight in the Scotsman's
tone.
The
road from Fort William followed the railway line most of the way to Glenfinnan.
Andy parked the car in the station car park and they made their way onto the
platform. There they found a small museum and a tentative enquiry elicited the
fact that there were, in fact, two trains due in about the following half hour.
Denise suggested a coffee in the converted coach.
Time
passed quickly and soon they were out in the sunshine again, waiting for the
first train which could be heard approaching, the beat of the cylinders clearly
audible in the still air.
Camera
ready, Ray snapped two or three shots as the Stanier Black 5 seemingly strolled
into the platform, eased to a steady and controlled halt and blew excess steam
from the cylinders. It was a thrilling sight, one seen only rarely since his
childhood. On that trip fifty years ago, steam had been replaced, the line's
regular locomotives condemned to the scrap lines and the cutter's torch. A few
more snaps and Ray expected the train to move off. But he was mistaken. The
tracks merged into a single line beyond Glenfinnan station and this train could
not move until the southbound train had arrived. Ray realised only too late
that he was on the wrong platform; the approaching train would be obscured and
the footbridge was now at the other end of the platform.
The
arriving train gave a whistle. A Thompson B1 running tender first. Such was
Ray's position and the curvature of the track that he could not get a decent
picture. Never mind: when the train stopped, he would have plenty of time to
cross the lines via the footbridge and get some nice photos.
Except
the train did not stop.
Albeit
at a very slow speed, it passed straight through and the opportunity was
missed.
As
the first train departed, Andy suggested that they walk to the loch less
than a quarter of a mile down the hill whilst he took the car down to the
visitor centre car park.
'So
many memories,' Ray murmured to Denise as they strolled down the hill.
'Are
you enjoying yourself, Dad?'
Ray
smiled. 'You have no idea how much!'
She
hooked her arm in his. 'I'm glad. That's what you're here for.'
Ray
smiled at his daughter. 'I don't want to go home – you know that?'
Denise
laughed. 'I can understand that.'
The
trees to their right disappeared and the loch suddenly appeared.
'They
filmed some of Highlander here, you know.'
Ray nodded absently. He did
know, but he was captivated by the sight of the shimmering waters and the
dancing sunlight.
Andy
gave them a toot and a wave as he drove past. The visitor centre was on
their left and they watched as Andy turned in.
'You
go on,' Denise said. 'I'll meet Andy and we'll follow you down.'
Ray turned to his right, square on to the loch's edge some fifty yards away. 'Loch
Shiel, you are beautiful,' he said out loud but directed at no one. 'I promised
I'd be back and here I am.'
At
ground level, it seemed even more striking than the last time he had seen it
from high up on the famous viaduct, sliding by as the train had shown but a
teasing glimpse of it.
And
there was the monument. The very
same monument that he viewed only so briefly fifty years before. The
place where Bonnie Prince Charlie had landed and launched his ill-fated
rebellion. There it stood.
Surrounded
by scaffolding and swathed in a canvas covering.
© Richard Tearle
(Photo by the author)
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